There’s a hush that falls over Hvar as Easter approaches, a quiet reverence that’s both ancient and deeply felt. It’s not the silence of slumber but of anticipation. In the stillness of the April dusk, when the Adriatic is a mirror to the heavens and the scent of wild rosemary floats on the breeze, a sacred tradition stirs once more: Za Križen — "Following the Cross."
Five centuries of devotion
For over five centuries, this remarkable nocturnal pilgrimage has shaped the rhythm of life on the island. Every Maundy Thursday at precisely 10pm, six barefoot processions depart simultaneously from the towns of Jelsa, Pitve, Vrisnik, Svirče, Vrbanj and Vrboska, each led by a chosen crossbearer — križonoša — shouldering a heavy, flower-laced cross through the night.
A sacred silence
The processions weave a silent thread of devotion across 25 kilometres of rugged paths, chapels and stone villages, never once crossing each other’s path. For the locals, it’s not simply tradition but an inheritance of faith, responsibility and unity passed down from generation to generation.
Photo by TZ JELSA / Vedran Janić
A living UNESCO heritage
Recognised by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage, Za Križen is not a performance but a living heartbeat. Families train for years. Some men wait decades for the honour of carrying the cross. Entire communities gather in solemn preparation rehearsing ancient Gospin Plač laments, polishing the candleholders, baking traditional sirnice and preparing to walk through the night together in prayer and song.
The heartbeat of a community
But what makes this ritual so profoundly moving isn’t just its antiquity or endurance. It’s the raw humanity it reveals — the emotional weight borne not just on the shoulders of the križonoša but by every mother, elder and child who walks beside him. The journey is long, the night cold and yet there is warmth in every Ave Maria and flicker of candlelight bouncing off stone facades and fig trees.
Beyond summer shores
For those who know Hvar only by its summer dress— sun-drenched days, cocktails by the sea and lavender-scented breezes — this sacred Easter moment offers an entirely different story. It is Hvar stripped of spectacle and revealed in all its authenticity. In April, the island slowly stretches awake from its winter slumber. Almond trees bloom, vineyards begin to stir and locals open their hearts to the rituals that define their identity.
Where Villas Hvar meets the island’s soul
Villas Hvar invites you to discover an experience beyond the postcard-perfect beaches and candy-coloured sunsets. When you stay with us during this sacred time, you’re not merely a guest but a respectful observer of something timeless. Our villas provide the perfect sanctuary to connect you to the soul of the island.
Imagine waking on Good Friday morning, your ears still echoing with the last hymns of the night, the sky painted with the first blush of dawn. From your terrace, you might see a crossbearer returning, greeted with quiet applause and open arms. You sip your coffee and feel it: the quiet pride of a people bound by story, tradition and unwavering devotion.
Photo by TZ JELSA / Vedran Janić
An invitation to experience Hvar’s most true self
Visiting Hvar in April offers something no summer itinerary can provide — an intimate view into the heart of a living culture. It’s a time when you can linger in local konobas without a crowd, chat with winemakers unhurried by the harvest and witness rituals untouched by time or tourism.
Whether you're drawn to cultural depth, spiritual reflection or simply a different kind of travel, Za Križen is a memory that will stay with you long after the last candle has burned. It’s the kind of experience that makes you fall in love not just with Hvar’s beauty but its soul.
This Easter, come home to Hvar
This Easter, let Villas Hvar be your home during one of the island’s most profound moments. Stay in comfort, walk with reverence and rediscover the art of meaningful travel. Because some journeys aren’t about how far you go — they’re about what you come home with.
