As Christmas draws near, the streets of Stari Grad begin to hum with the spirit of tradition and the aroma of something ancient yet familiar: paprenjok cookies.
These spiced delights, steeped in history and flavour, are more than a treat — they are a connection to the island’s soul and a culinary echo of its past.
A sweet tale as old as time
The story of paprenjok begins in the 16th century, immortalised by the poet Petar Hektorović in his famed work, Fishing and Fishermen's Talk (Ribanje i ribarsko prigovaranje). Within the verses of this poetic travelogue, Hektorović recounts a three-day fishing journey from Stari Grad to Šolta. Among the provisions packed for this voyage were local delicacies: muscat wines, kashkaval cheese, honeycomb honey and the humble paprenjok.
Every ingredient in this cookie told a story. The honey was harvested from the buzzing bees of Stari Grad’s fertile fields, the wheat grown and milled in Hektorović’s own Tvrdalj estate and the olive oil pressed from the family grove. The spices — cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg — came from faraway lands traded through the bustling port of Stari Grad, which was a vital link in Mediterranean commerce.
Interestingly, the name ‘paprenjok’ does not reflect the inclusion of black pepper but instead derives from the term papor, a local name for the spice blend of nutmeg, cinnamon and cloves. These precious spices, once rare and exotic, transformed the humble cookie into a symbol of the island’s connection to the world beyond its shores.
A cookie for all seasons
Through the centuries, paprenjok became a staple not just for holidays but for life’s milestones. Mothers and wives baked these cookies for their sailors, sending them off to sea with a taste of home that could last through long voyages. Paprenjok’s remarkable longevity meant it stayed fresh for weeks, offering both sustenance and a touch of comfort.
But paprenjok was more than food; it was a storyteller. Sailors noted that the cookies could predict the weather. If they softened, it foretold the coming of the south wind and rain. When they hardened, the cold bura wind was on its way. These cookies, shaped like hearts, fish, clovers or amphorae, were both practical and poetic — a symbol of love, sustenance and a sailor’s barometer.
A Christmas tradition
Today, the baking of paprenjok is a cherished ritual on Hvar, especially in Stari Grad. Kitchens fill up with the scent of honey and spices and families gather to shape the dough into intricate designs. Once, the decoration was done with the simplest of tools: a vine stick tipped with a pin, used to apply a mixture of egg whites, sugar and lemon juice. This artisanal touch elevated each cookie into a small work of art.
As the holidays approach, paprenjok reminds us of the warmth of shared traditions and the timeless connections between food, family and heritage. It’s not just a cookie; it’s a piece of history, a celebration of resilience and a symbol of the island’s enduring spirit.
Your turn to bake paprenjok
Bring a taste of Stari Grad into your home this Christmas with this authentic recipe:
Ingredients:
500 g honey
250 g olive oil
250 ml prošek (sweet white wine)
2 sachets of saffron
1 teaspoon of cinnamon
A pinch of baking soda
1 whole nutmeg (grated)
A pinch of cloves
1000 g flour
Instructions:
- Boil the honey and let it cool. In a separate pot, bring the prošek and cloves to a boil, then let them cool as well. Soak the saffron in the cooled prošek.
- In a large bowl, combine the cooled honey with the nutmeg, cinnamon, baking soda and strained prošek (discarding the cloves).
- Gradually add the flour, mixing until a soft, pliable dough forms. Let the dough rest for 5–6 hours.
- Roll out the dough and cut into shapes — hearts, baskets, fish or any design you love.
- Preheat your oven to 200°C and bake the cookies for about 20 minutes.
- For decoration, whisk egg whites with powdered sugar and a few drops of lemon juice. Use this mixture to adorn your cookies with intricate patterns.
A taste of heritage
As you bite into the golden spiced cookie, imagine the sailors setting sail from Stari Grad with paprenjok in their satchels, a piece of home to guide them through distant seas. This Christmas, let paprenjok connect you to the warmth of Hvar’s traditions and the enduring magic of a cookie that has travelled through time, carrying with it the soul of an island.
