Imagine old Pheme, a stone house surrounded with equally dignified and old stone sisters, in a picturesque village in the south of the island of Hvar, gazing curiously at the blue sea for hundreds of years, wondering about the places she could have gone to but hadn’t since her love for Zaraće was stronger.
The fact that it says 1881 on this house means that it has been standing here at least as of 1881, but its owners don’t know exactly when it was built. What they do know is that the house was completely refurbished in 2019; it covers 90m2 of interior on two floors, 30m2 of terrace space, whereas the plot spans over 700m2, which includes a bocce court so you can become an authentic Dalmatian (a least for a little while). This includes the obligatory siesta, the pižolot, or the afternoon rest from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. Some customs are priceless; for everything else, there are credit cards.
You can reach Pheme by using the new road from Stari Grad to Hvar and stopping in Zaraće. Then you take the first narrow, steep path to you right uphill towards the village. You’ll quickly stop at a wider section of the path, where you can park your car. You’ll walk another 50 meters or so uphill (I’m not the best judge of distances; it could be 40 or 60, pardon my French) and – ta-daaa! You’ll find yourselves in front of a house with a view to die for.
The ground floor of the house serves as storage space for the owners, who are not here, unless you need them. After climbing about 13 steps along the terrace towards the first floor, you reach the entrance to Cottage Pheme. You enter the hallway; on your right, you’ll see the door of the first bedroom with extendable beds (90x90cm each) and, after it, a door of the bathroom with a shower tray. On your left, you’ll find a door leading to the main bedroom with a matrimonial bed (200x180cm) and again (again!) the view to die for or romance as it once was.
After about another 13 steps, you’ll reach the second floor of Cottage Pheme and find a spacious open plan kitchen, dining room, and living room. To your left, you’ll see the door to another bathroom, but this time with a bath. While you’re dining in the dining room, you’ll feel all warm and fuzzy on the inside because of the food, but also because of the view out the window. The space is located in a high loft and it filled with wood, which adds a sense of warmth and home. There aren’t too many details here since the space focuses on what matters – and what matters is the view. From the window you can see the terrace with the outside dining table and wooden reclining chairs. Have we mentioned that the terrace view is to die for?
Tour de Pheme is finished. Everything about Pheme is unobtrusive yet quite sufficient for utmost pleasure. We’d personally choose different details in the interior of the cottage, but we’d definitely leave the view as it is – perfect.
Cottage Pheme is only about 1.5 km from one of the most beautiful beaches of Hvar so the pool is unnecessary. The sea is beautiful, the Zaraće restaurant is ubercool, the first store is about a 4-minute drive away, and the town of Hvar only an 8-minute drive away. Do you need any other recommendations?